30 days Mugu-Humla Survey

Going to Mugu was confirmed when working in RAP3 I was asked by Bill Seal (Engineering Team Leader) to join a team that were conducting a detail survey for a road corridor which would connect Humla to Gamgadhi (headquarter of Mugu). In his mail, he mentioned, it would be quite interesting and challenging job.

View of Gamgadhi bazaar
At first I was excited to travel to Mugu and Humla, both being new places to me, but when I reached home and informed my parents about it, they were really put into depression. Their face expression changed. Yeah I was anticipating that, being the only child and have to be walking on steep terrain through the jungle and river.


To tell the truth, somewhere inside I was scared too. That was because of thought of walking in steep virgin land where there was no trail of road at all. I had once fallen from a steep terrain when i was in grade 11. Blood vessels of my head were brusted and I had to walk on strength of a leg for a week.

However, I conquered my fears and convinced my parents saying that it was a great opportunity to me. Not only I'd be making some money, but I would be taking part in my first professional road survey which was grand in itself and its grandness was amplified by the fact that I was going to least developed place like Mugu and Humla of Nepal.

With that mindset, I set out. By any means, I was hoping to return in one piece, come back and celebrate Dashain with my family.

The journey began. Up and down the hills I went. Truly speaking, I had never been so close to mountain ever before. Not in Achham, Bajura or Dadeldhura.

We walked at least 7 hrs a day. We woke up at 6 am. Got ready by 7 am and by 7:30 we were in field, working. The target which we had set of reaching upto Humla border (Chankheli) had to be met. As we marched further away from Gamgadhi, the remoteness of the place increased.

Throughout the journey, I came across some steep slope time and again. I even slipped at one place but was rescued. Just a small scratch and not much. Yeah, I learned engineering survey but besides that there were many other things that I felt good of. I came across many people, talked with them, understood their feelings, scenario of their living and much more.

One of those lively talk was at Chankheli pass, with female hotel owner about the child marriage. She asked me if I was married. I said, "No" and then she asked my age. I said "23". Then she gave a good laugh and said, "Sir, None of the girls would believe you now. You are too old for anyone in the village". That made me smile.
Magnifico "Chankheli Pass" from Mugu-Humla Border

When I felt my legs, my heart got stronger. By walking through the hills, my legs were getting damn stronger. I felt that i could knock out anyone with a kick.To kill the tiredness which was a result of walking and working all day, we used to take whiskey made locally. I had never known about "Jhaikuti", made by heating a ghee and frying very small amount of rice (Jhanne) until it turns red and when its ready we pour that divine drink and sip it up. Its kind of hot drink and the locals forced me to take it when i was suffering from cold and to my surprise, it worked. Next morning, hoarseness in my voice disappeared. Cheers to "Jhaikuti" :)


Tent set up in the middle of wilderness

Not only Jhaikuti was my first thing there. I had "Jharal", "Naaur", Rabbit's meat for the first time there. I had slept in tent in middle of wilderness for the first time there and unforgettably i had shitted in the forest every morning, openly, for about 10 days, there. :D

Yeah that's me :)
There it was, i touched a real gun and heard the sound of bullet fired. Some people were hunters. They were proud to call themselves "Sikari". Guns present there reminded me of the "Sankat kal" (internal fight between government and Maoist) , that our nation went through. I talked about it and hearing their story I could do nothing but just take a deep breath. Its such a shame that Nepal went through sacrifice of many young lives and to find the situation of our country at the moment is not justifiable to the sacrifices that it has borne.

Holding up a gun
30 days came to an end. To celebrate our victory of successfully completing the work, we went to Rara Lake, the biggest lake of Nepal. Drizzle on the way was making atmosphere very cool. When we reached there, I felt, it might have been at its best or like many, I might be the one who was so lured by its beauty. A good drink in air filled with fragnance of its beauty and presence of  loved ones around me is something I'll cherish.
 
There were many incidents/talks worth sharing. Honestly, at that time in the field, i wished many times on returning home sooner. Now, thinking of it, the more i stayed there, the more experience i gained.

Oh what a hell of a ride has it been.

RARA Lake (Biggest lake of Nepal)

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